Herbal Infused Beauty Oil

An important part of our Herbalism program is the classes on Medicine Making with herbs. In the Medicine Making classes, our students learn to make a gamut of herbal products: Syrups, electuaries, oxymels, infused oils, lotions, liniments, lip balms, salves, hydrosols, cordials, tinctures, tea infusions, tea decoctions, vinegar infusions, glycerite infusions, poultices, and fomentations.

This article takes one of those categories – infused oils – and gives you the background, details, and a recipe on how to make your own infused oils, specifically herbal infused oils for beauty and skincare.

We have a sister school, the School of Botanical and Medical Aesthetics, and we love to weave elements of our programs together. Not all herbalism programs instruct on how to make their own natural skincare products for beauty and for healing, but we love bringing in education inspired by our sister schools wherever we can. Our other sister school is The Denver Integrative Massage School.

One of our Herbalism instructors, Martin Hansen, is also an instructor at our sister Aesthetics school. Martin is both an Herbalist and an Aesthetician and has been practicing both since 2000. He also used to have his own natural, herbal skincare line called Martin George Skin. He’s been making Herbal Infused Oils for decades. He shares his wisdom about infused oils and his recipes with our Herbalism and Aesthetics students at student clinic and is also sharing this information with all of you in the information below:

Oil Infusions

Infused oils are “steeped” in history. It’s often said that the early Egyptians were the first to record recipes for infused oils for medicine and beauty, but oil infusions, or macerations, can also be found in early TCM, Ayurveda, and Roman cultures. This method of extraction predates the distillation of the essential oils and effectively pulls a wider variety of medicine from the plant.
Herbal-infused oils provide intense healing properties that improve the skin in many ways. The carrier oil or base menstruum is made into a more impactful ingredient that enhances the health and beauty of the skin. The oils also carry the energy of the plants, which lends their power of spiritual and emotional healing.
The two most common methods for making infused oils are Folk Method, or Cold Infusion, and Slow Cook Method, or Warm Infusion. Each have their moments to shine, but for Beauty Oil my preference is to use Folk Method.

Folk Method infusion

Folk Method infusion is done by loosely packing dried plant material, also known as the marc, into a jar, half to 2/3rds full. Then cover the marc with chosen carrier oil, making sure the oil completely covers all the plant material. Seal the jar and wait 4-6 weeks for the plants to give all their medicinal and energetic action to the oil. Put your intention into your creation. Visit the jar daily and think about what it’s for and how it will work as you shake it. Tape words of affirmation to the jar. Set it in a sunny window.

I often buried my infused oils in my garden, visiting daily by placing my hand on the soil and imagining the infusion soaking up the wisdom of the earth. I would bury it on a full moon and dig it up on the next full moon. It was this process that taught me that making medicine or beauty ingredients isn’t just about the compounds in the plants but also about your relationship to your creation. Once your oil has infused, strain off the plant material through a wire strainer lined with cheesecloth. Once any plant particulates have settled to the bottom, strain through a coffee filter.

Slow Cook Method

The Slow Cook Method involves placing the marc in oil that is gently heated. You want your oil to be heated uncovered to around 110 degrees to maintain the efficacy of the medicine. You can use a digital crockpot to achieve this. I use a cast-iron Dutch oven because it makes me feel very witchy. Gently heat the plants in oil for 2-4 hours and then strain. This method is ideal for infusions with plants that still have water. Some plants are better infused fresh or slightly wilted, and the heat allows for the medicinal quality to be extracted while the water is evaporated. If there is any water in the finished oil, there is a higher potential for it to mold. This is my preferred method to infuse Arnica or Dandelion flowers to later make into a pain salve.

Your powerful, magic oil is ready to be used as is or turned into something else. Your infused oil can be a body oil, face serum, facial moisturizer, hair treatment, body, or lip balm. The options are endless.

What is Herbal Infused Beauty Oil?

This Beauty Oil is designed to tick every box of face care needs. It is meant to be used by any skin type, addressing almost any skin condition. The long list of actions includes balancing sebum production, clarifying skin tone, deeply hydrating, anti-inflammatory, antihistamine, improved resistance to sun damage, treating existing sun damage, treating and preventing hyperpigmentation, strengthening and encouraging new collagen and elastin fibers, and fighting free radicals. Beauty oils like this one could be modified to focus on one skincare need with a higher concentration of chosen ingredients.

For example, to create an infused oil that treats dry and dehydrated skin, I would use the recipe below with only Calendula, Marshmallow, and Rose Hips.

Herbal Infused Beauty Oil Recipe

Note.
The quantity of ingredients varies depending on the size of the batch being made. This recipe is based on a 32-oz jar and makes roughly 24 oz of finished product.

INGREDIENTS

Sunflower Oil (enough to cover herbs and fill the jar)
*Infused with 2 tablespoons each:
Ashwagandha
Burdock
Calendula
Chamomile
Frankincense
Gotu Kola
Jasmine
Lavender
Licorice
Marshmallow
Rose
Rosehips

Added to the base oil after infusion:

Jojoba – 2 oz
Shea Butter – 1 teaspoon
Cocoa Butter – 1 teaspoon
Vitamin E – 1 teaspoon
Carrot Seed Essential Oil – 15 drops
Frankincense Essential Oil – 15 drops
Geranium Essential Oil – 20 drops
Neroli Essential Oil – 10 drops
Turmeric Essential Oil – 5 drops

DIRECTIONS

Loosely pack all dried herbs into a 32-oz jar. Cover completely with sunflower oil and fill the remainder of the jar. Seal and let sit for 6 weeks, shaking daily.

After 6 weeks, strain through a metal strainer lined twice with cheesecloth. Let the oil stand for 24 hours to allow any plant particles to settle to the bottom. Strain the remaining oil through a coffee filter.

In a double boiler melt the shea butter and cocoa butter. Add the melted butters, jojoba oil, and vitamin E to the infused sunflower oil.
Once combined, add the essential oils and mix again.

Store in an airtight, dark container in a cool, dark place.

Use 5-10 drops 1-2 times a day as a face serum under moisturizer or added to your moisturizer.

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